Ebook Dressing Renaissance Florence: Families, Fortunes, and Fine Clothing (The Johns Hopkins University Studies in Historical and Political Scie
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As portraits, private diaries, and estate inventories make clear, elite families of the Italian Renaissance were obsessed with fashion, investing as much as forty percent of their fortunes on clothing. In fact, the most elaborate outfits of the period could cost more than a good-sized farm out in the Mugello. Yet despite its prominence in both daily life and the economy, clothing has been largely overlooked in the rich historiography of Renaissance Italy. In Dressing Renaissance Florence, however, Carole Collier Frick provides the first in-depth study of the Renaissance fashion industry, focusing on Florence, a city founded on cloth, a city of wool manufacturers, finishers, and merchants, of silk dyers, brocade weavers, pearl dealers, and goldsmiths. From the artisans who designed and assembled the outfits to the families who amassed fabulous wardrobes, Frick's wide-ranging and innovative interdisciplinary history explores the social and political implications of clothing in Renaissance Italy's most style-conscious city.
Frick begins with a detailed account of the industry itself―its organization within the guild structure of the city, the specialized work done by male and female workers of differing social status, the materials used and their sources, and the garments and accessories produced. She then shows how the driving force behind the growth of the industry was the elite families of Florence, who, in order to maintain their social standing and family honor, made continuous purchases of clothing―whether for everyday use or special occasions―for their families and households. And she concludes with an analysis of the clothes themselves: what pieces made up an outfit; how outfits differed for men, women, and children; and what colors, fabrics, and design elements were popular. Further, and perhaps more basically, she asks how we know what we know about Renaissance fashion and looks to both Florence's sumptuary laws, which defined what could be worn on the streets, and the depiction of contemporary clothing in Florentine art for the answer.
For Florence's elite, appearance and display were intimately bound up with self-identity. Dressing Renaissance Florence enables us to better understand the social and cultural milieu of Renaissance Italy.
- Sales Rank: #3304550 in Books
- Published on: 2002-09-03
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 9.00" h x 1.12" w x 6.00" l,
- Binding: Hardcover
- 368 pages
Review
A useful and timely undertaking.
(Elizabeth Currie Textile History)
A pioneering book on the sartorial extravagance and fashions in Florence.
(L. R. N. Ashley Bibliotheque d'Humanisme et Renaissance)
A wonderful book, after reading which we will not be able to visualise Renaissance Florence in the same way again.
(Catherine Kovesi Killerby Reviews in History)
This lively book should convince any skeptic that fashion was a serious Renaissance business.
(Diane Owen Hughes Renaissance Quarterly)
This study nicely opens up a little-studied domain of Renaissance culture and shows the way to linking mundane craft with the dearest social aspirations of the Florentine elite.
(American Historical Review)
The Johns Hopkins University Press is to be congratulated for publishing this imaginative book linking the history of technology and guilds with social history, with the study of costume, and with artistic iconography... This book will be a delight for scholar and general reader alike.
(Daryl M. Hafter Enterprise and Society)
Frick's thorough treatment of Renaissance costume has set a new standard of excellence for scholars working on costume of any age.
(Sandra Sider H-Italy, H-Net Reviews)
The final sections of this valuable study on sumptuary legislation and the representation of clothes in art are perhaps the most effective in drawing out the significance of clothing in understanding social relationships and social power in Renaissance Florence.
(Graeme Murdock History)
This is a very substantial and innovative investigation of the clothing industry and fashion market in Renaissance Italy. Frick has done important and original work in the archives and successfully illuminates a crucial but little-studied aspect of Renaissance culture and economy. This book will find a large readership in Renaissance and early modern studies, in gender studies and the history of women and the family, and in social history generally.
(John M. Najemy, Department of History, Cornell University)
Dressing Renaissance Florence is a fascinating and wide-ranging study. It covers everything pertaining to clothing, from ribbon vendors to the great Ghirlandaio frescoes. No other study has taken this broad interdisciplinary approach to dress. Frick has a clear mastery of the complex technical vocabulary surrounding the creation of fashion, and the broad archival base of her study is impressive.
(Carol Lansing, Department of History, University of California, Santa Barbara)
Seldom does one come across such a valuable and entertaining book.
(Alana White Renaissance Magazine)
An important addition not just to the history of clothing, but to our understanding of social positioning within the visual field of Florentine culture.
(John T. Paoletti Journal of Social History)
A fascinating college-level study, recommended for any collection strong in fashion or Renaissance history.
(Bookwatch)
About the Author
Carole Collier Frick is an associate professor of history at Southern Illinois University, Edwardsville.
Most helpful customer reviews
0 of 0 people found the following review helpful.
Terrific Reference and very entertaining.
By fulene
This is a great book( thesis). Very good reference material for clothing of this period. There is a lot of information about how fashion figured in the lives of the aristocracy in Renaissance Florence and about the guilds and craftspeople who made the clothes and accessories. There are lists of articles, including two Trousseaux, one for a wedding, one for a convent. There is information on fabrics and ornaments. There is info on sumptuary legislation and " fashion police". I wish it had more intimate descriptions of how the clothes were made, layered and worn, cleaned, etc. but I may find this in other books on the subject. This is a wonderful book that brings to life the sartorial atmosphere of the period. I highly recommend this book. I should like to add that there are very few illustrations, and the ones included are black and white renderings of paintings of the period, showing actual members of the elite families.
0 of 1 people found the following review helpful.
Superbly detailed
By Books R Us
Frick's book is an invaluable resource for those of us studying or writing about Quattrocento Florence.
55 of 55 people found the following review helpful.
OUTSTANDING - Renaissance Florence students, take note!
By The Strife of Love in a Dream
I'm extremely impressed. I think this book would make an outstanding addition to any Renaissance-lover's, or garbaholic's, bookshelf.
It is not about how to make Italian-persona clothing. Instead, it focuses on how Florentines of the Renaissance used clothing to make social statements. Along the way, it examines some things that garbmakers would like hearing about (one table lists various color combinations found in gowns and linings), but mostly, it's about the sociology of fashion.
Chapters:
* Craftspeople and tailors (including how clothes-making guilds were organized and the role women played in these guilds)
* Tailoring Family Honor (how Florentines viewed honor and how they thought honor was expressed through clothing)
* Family Fortunes in Clothes (how much they spent, and a bit about the secondhand clothes market)
* The making of wedding gowns (you'll love learning how many opinions went into one and how totally political it all was)
* Trousseaux for Marriage and Convent (how they differed, and lists of what went into each)
And stuff about sumptuary law, information about layers of clothing, types of dyes (and an examination of mourning clothes), types of fabric, and clothes as depicted in art -- and how art might have distorted how people really wore clothes. Embroidery is also covered.
Needless to say, the painter Ghirlandaio features pretty prominently here. There are also b/w repros of portraits, unfortunately not super well detailed, but there are a few here I haven't seen before. There are also appendices that are very useful -- lists of currency and measures, categories of clothiers, yardage required for various garments, glossaries of what yardage terms meant, and a HUGE bibliography and glossary of terms.
It isn't a physically large book, clocking in at around 300pp, but it's very rich in detail, and the writing is pleasant to read. I'd definitely recommend this book to anybody wanting to immerse in the period -- and DEFINITELY for any Renaissance costumers out there. It might not be a bad idea to have some basic grounding in the period before reading this, but it's written well enough that if any is required, it isn't much.
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